Desire Resort & Spa, Mexico Cancun- Riviera Maya!

Trip report  Desire Resort & Spa

The Desire Resort & Spa in Cancun (Mexiko) is to my mind the finest, most welcoming nudist and couples destination on this beautiful planet of ours. I’m obviously forced to make this claim without having had the chance to visit every alternate couples destination, even though I've personally seen my fair share in Europe, but I am able to draw on reports of other Desire guests on locations such as the Hedonism II and Hedonism III hotels in Jamaica or the Orient Beach on St. Martin, with Cap d’Agde especially prominent as the market standard bearer.

So... pack your bags for that little piece of paradise that is Mexico!

The Location of the Desire Resort & Spa

The resort is located in the Northeast of the Mexican peninsula Yucatan on the so-called "Riviera Maya", an approximately 250km long coast line situated beyond a reef system. This region, together with the area South of the city Cancun has witnessed the development of a tremendous holiday area, comparable to Andalusia, visited predominantly by North Americans, but also increasingly by ever more Europeans. Cancun is the main location in the North, together with the nearby international airport, at which you’ll typically arrive (we flew from Germany via London and Miami, though there are airlines which operate direct flights). Along the coast to the South of Cancun, stretching to the town of Tulum in the South, there runs a long line of holiday resorts and destinations, the biggest of which being the Playa del Carmen resort.

App. 2km inland a broad motorway-like street runs North to South, from which the approaches to the hotels generally turn off. The majority of resorts are cordoned off by, in part, quite grandiose approach gates and are as such only open to guests. The motorway from the airport meets the aforementioned stretch of road South of Cancun. Desire Resort & Spa itself is situated a few kilometres to the South of the quaint fishing town Puerto Morelos, whilst the directions on the Desire - homepage are very precise and enabled us to find the resort without any troubles (though I should note, that since we had a rental car I’m not able to comment on alternative transfer services, such as the resort-shuttle or taxis). The Desire resort is located directly on the coast, with further holiday resorts to the North and, for the meantime at least, nothing but wilderness to the South.

On approaching the resort you pass bush land typical of Yucatan, then turn past a small marshland (marked by a "Beware Crocodile Area" sign) and arrive at a gateway, where at attendant checks your names against a guest list. A bellboy then awaits you in front of the lobby, decorated as every other building in the area with Yucatanian palm leaves, to relieve you of your luggage. You’ll then be invited to take a seat by the front-desk and enjoy a complimentary glass of champagne, which furthermore offers you a first glimpse of the beautiful gardens, on which guests are free to stroll around naked or in bathing suites. Check-in doesn’t take more than a few minutes, but this alone suffices to give a sense of how friendly and relaxed the resort is.

The staff all speak English, (as well as Spanish, though you’re obviously going to have trouble communicating with staff as well as other guests without a certain knowledge of English) and the first information you’ll receive includes a short background to the facilities on the offer, various reference sheets to read through and a voucher for a reservation in one of the many a-la-carte restaurants on site. In addition to all this we were then given the, for all-inclusive resorts obligatory, armband which is to be worn until departure.

The Rooms The rooms are arranged into small, two-storey terraced bungalows, that is to say there are rooms with a terrace on offer downstairs and rooms with a balcony upstairs, with terrace or balcony always shared between two rooms. We booked a cheaper, to my mind just as such picturesque as its more expensive "Ocean-view" counterpart, "Garden-view" room, which gave us a view of the wonderful, tropical, not to mention very well-tended gardens to enjoy. The rooms essentially consist of a large bedroom, host to a 2x2m bed, which under its canopy gives more the impression of a playground than a place of rest. The floors consist of Cotta-like tiles, you’ve got a wall closet featuring a safe and an all-inclusive mini-bar, a chest of drawers, a large mirror and a washbasin. The adjoining bathroom comes complete with bidet and spacious shower, which sits behind a head-high partition. The bungalows also feature a steep Yucatanian straw roof, so that I was able to look at the beautiful wooden construction in the evening and imagine myself in paradisiacal beach hut. In the rooms you’ll also find a ventilator and temperature-responsive air-conditioning system. On site there are other, bigger (i.e. more expensive) suites on offer, some of which have a Jacuzzi, though that’s only something I’d recommend to the more shyer of guests, given we were perfectly happy to enjoy a sunny or starry sky to the company of other guests in the communal Jacuzzi (see below). Clothing Optional The resort as a whole refers to itself as "clothing optional", in short everyone is free to decide for themselves, when and where they want to wander around topless, in shorts, beach-towel, the latest Wicked Weasel bikini or simply naked. My impression was that complete nudity clearly predominated, particularly around the large pool and at the beach, whilst a slightly higher proportion choose to cover up to some extent when moving around the site. The proportion of shaved women was easily above 90%, and even then the rest were at least partly shaved, whilst at least a third of the men were shaved. As regards age groups represented, on our visit the average seemed to be around 35-40, though you’re just as likely to see stylish youths in their twenties as those over sixty looking to enjoy a new lease of life. Aesthetic disasters tend to keep themselves within limits and even then are to be found more from male guests, amongst whom a small number of overweight gentlemen were seen to be living it up with visibly younger, considerably more attractive women. Alarming for us, as Europeans at least, was the high proportion of women with artificial breasts: whilst in the Orient the wealth of a man is supposedly visible from the jewellery of his wife, North Americans obviously take the amount of plastic surgery as a point in reference - awful! I saw a number of younger women sporting super-model figures, whose appearance was often completely ruined due to the amount of, sometimes completely unsuccessful, silicon enhancement. We didn't see much intimate jewellery on show, though I've no doubt it would be well received provided things don't reach fetish-like dimensions. For an evening in one of the restaurants you're expected to be clothed, men wear shorts or trousers together with a t-shirt or polo shirt, women on the other hand tend to dress more elegantly, often according to the daily varying dress code of the disco (I'd recommend you take a look at the programme of events in advance online, then you're always in the position to take the right outfits). I should however say, that the tasteless sense of fashion of certain men didn't really match the otherwise high standards and erotic charge of the location. The odd individual or two on the part of the women also made the mistake of choosing an outfit which didn't really compliment her partner (or her weight). In summary I'd say that the typical Cap d’Agde evening wardrobe fits perfectly at the Desire Resort & Spa (though in the A la Carte restaurants however, you are recommended to dress a little more elegantly than usual). In any case dinner in the El Arrecife buffet restaurant is always a welcome evening's entertainment, complete with fashion show.

Desire Resort Club Facilities

There are two swimming pools on site: a large pool surrounded by a number of sun beds and a pool bar, serving drinks, snacks and a lunch buffet, around which the day's entertainment generally occurs. As such you'll find all those here, who are looking to enjoy the entertainment on offer, have a swim or simply want to see and be seen. The pool is kidney-shaped with a chest-high section, which functions daily as a volleyball field, and a more shallow part to relax in. The beach borders almost immediately on to the larger pool. By the pool you'll also find the towel station, i.e. the place where, on giving your names and room number, you receive beach towels for the sun beds. You're free to take and return as many towels a day as you wish, and on the whole there are more than enough sun beds at the beach and by the pool, and we never had a problem finding a place.

The second, smaller, so-called "topless" pool is situated immediately in front of the lobby, as such those to be found here and at the adjoining bar tend to wear a little more - the postman could otherwise always drop by and take away from the otherwise complete nudity ;-) At this pool you'll find - just as by the larger pool and Jacuzzi - beautiful large, freely swinging divans, in other words 2x2m beds surrounded by transparent curtains. There you're free to have a lie down and relax, have a chat etc, whilst in the evenings guests often make use of the divans to take a break from the disco or simply to enjoy a summer evenings.

One drawback of the resort is the beach, which is just as long as the Desire resort, I'd guess maybe 400m, 10m wide and consists of fine white sand. There you'll find numerous straw-covered sunshades and sun decks as well as sufficient sun beds. There's enough place for everyone and it's also not the case that you're forced to lie back-to-back, given a considerable number of the guests seem to prefer the pool. There is furthermore a small pier, also featuring a straw-covered bathing area based upon an under-water wooden platform. And the drawback? On this beach-segment of the Rivierta Maya there are a large number of aquatic plants, and the remains thereof tend to gather in the sand, although to be fair the hotel staff do work daily on the problem of clearing the washed up plants.

The water depth generally reaches around 1m and only increases very slowly. Only when you reach the coral reef, which is recognisable from a distance by the bursting waves, do the depths start to reach 2 - 3m. Personally, the plants didn't overly bother me, since we were always able to find areas where the sand wasn't covered and as such, allowed us to make the most of the beautiful Caribbean waters. By the end of March a certain amount of wind and cloud, though given this is obviously dependent on the time of year and the weather conditions, you'd do well to to read up in a reputable travel guide.

There is a beach volleyball field and water sports station on the beach (offering surfing, catamaran sailing, canoeing, snorkelling etc). Unfortunately I can't say a lot on this topic, especially on what you're required to pay extra for and what not. The hotel also offers every kind of excursion imaginable (Mayan ruins, Cancun, Cozumel island etc). Beach walks are another possibility, though you obviously need to keep in mind that, away from the hotel beach (marked by "Nude Beach" signs) you're required to wear more conventional bathing clothes. One thing I did enjoy was the sign from the neighbouring hotel towards Desire: The guest's attention is referred to the fact that, beyond this sign you're likely to encounter extreme nudity and as such, the hotel accepts no liability therefor.

Another facility on offer is the spa area which comes together with a well-equipped gym (treadmills, exercise bikes etc), sauna, steam bath (although why the latter is divided between males and females is unknown to me), massage and cosmetic rooms. Here you'll also find a wide selection of, admittedly often not particularly cheap, additional services on offer (e.g. 25 minute relaxing massage - 45 USD). There's also a small shop in the vicinity, which sells souvenirs, everything you might need for the beach and a range of erotic clothing, and in addition a jeweller.

"Lifestyle" facilities

And then you've got the two small places which transform Desire into a "Lifestyle" location: the Jacuzzi-deck and the disco ("lifestyle" incidentally being a North American metaphor for openly-practiced sexuality and swinging). The building by the pool features a sundeck on its roof, invisible from below, with a large whirlpool, several wooden sun beds, a large bar and seven divans. It's up here from 1 in the afternoon until 3 in the morning that things really get moving: couples who want to have open-air sex next to (but not necessarily with) others, simply come upstairs, have a look for a free divan, pick up two fresh towels and make themselves comfortable on one of the large beds. Here you're free to to smooch, stroke, suck and screw until your heart's content. The warm sunshine or romantic starlight always guarantee a romantic atmosphere, in short it's absolutely mad!

Beforehand or afterwards you're then free to take a seat in the warm Jacuzzi, sip a drink, carry on in the bubbly water or simply relax. A lot of people choose to have a chat with each other (English!), particularly the Americans, who to be honest were a little to loud and in-your-face for my taste. In the evenings I also saw women who would then lie themselves on the bar, let the barman pour chocolate sauce over their bodies and then invite other guests to lick them clean, though I'd guess this was intended more for fun than any erotic pleasure.

Everything that I've said about the Jacuzzi-deck also applies to the disco: there you'll find a round, elevated dance floor with two table dance poles, a bar with bar stools and, in the background, a large area with numerous leather sofas. Here things get started at around 10 in the evening, always according to a dress code, which to be fair is on the whole not adhered to that strictly and in addition provides for a certain variety. There's also often a competition (best male strip, Miss Desire, best lingerie etc) and then dance until roughly 2 in the morning. Women are always in erotic dress and then behind the main room of the disco you've a playroom, to which you can retreat when your partner or the crowd as a whole have got you hot under the collar that you need to take a break. Basically it's a classic playroom like those you find in a couples club (though I didn't see any condoms placed about). Unfortunately the room's always full and as such the erotic atmosphere suffers somewhat, though you can always have it off in the disco, in the dark on one of the leather sofas. Or your partner simply gets down to business and sucks you off there and then at the bar. Or treats you to a steamy strip-tease at the bar and gets completely naked. In short you get up to anything your mood and fellow guests might move you to. Don't be shy! Just get going and the others won't be long in joining you.

Generally the on-site imperative is that beyond the two above-mentioned sights, overt sexuality is prohibited, though provided you're willing to let your passions loose decently you're free to do so on the beach or wherever else and I personally didn't once witness a member of management demand of a couple that they cease their erotic actions. Anyone heard of the public beach in Cap d’ Agde? One hundred men stand masturbating around a couple, that are most likely looking to have their fun in peace and quiet? That's not what you'll find here! You're free to abandon yourselves without the gazes of a horde of curious males, though try to do things in style! The resort really has a fairly upmarket standard of service and clientele. Couples loudly having their way in every corner isn't what you'll find here - and we liked it that way! Eroticism, not sex for sport!

Conclusion
The standards of the Desire Resort & Spa are really high! Excellent food, a fantastic range of drinks at the different bars, extremely friendly and courteous staff, all facilities perfectly clean and guests who all seemed to enjoy the atmosphere and never hesitate to smile at and greet one another. The Desire motto would is actually a fairly accurate reflection of our frame of mind during our stay: Stop Thinking ... Start Living!

You'll also find the motto on the club t-shirts, though unfortunately only on those to be won at the pool and disco competitions.

Check out the Desire Resort on our website: Desire Resort & Spa


April 2005
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